Technical study on the early twentieth century’s embroidered women waistcoat in Gyalrong Tibetan area in Sichuan, China

Abstract In the early twentieth century, traditional handicraft was challenged by the latest technology in China. It is reflected by ethnic costumes combining new and old, as in the waistcoat of this study. This waistcoat made at Gyalrong Tibetan area in Sichuan, China, displays unique local features in terms of its brilliant colors and comprehensive craftsmanship. This study employs techniques such as optical microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope and high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry to investigate various aspects of this waistcoat, including its fabrics and dyes. The results showed that the waistcoat was primarily made of cotton and silk, with a bamboo paper layer, and that silk as well as twisted gold and silver threads were employed for the embroidery. Various embroidery techniques were applied, with patterns, color combinations, and characteristics being consistent with those of Tibetan and Shu (蜀) embroidery. In terms of dyeing technology, a wide range of colors were achieved through multi-step dyeing processes using natural dye stuffs like pagoda bud, and synthetic dyes like magenta. These findings indicates that modern technologies were well integrated into traditional garment manufacture in the early twentieth century in China.