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• The paper extends GPN theory to creative and cultural sectors, analysing global–local interactions in the fashion industry. • It analyses a sustainable fashion firm in Bilbao, linking global supply chains with local resources and practices. • Focusing on emerging designers in Bilbao, it highlights the role of institutions such as BIAAF in skills and market access. • The analysis identifies intermediaries as key global–local enablers and derives policy insights for innovation and sustainability. • A comparative framework on coupling, embeddedness and power is developed to inform tailored policies for CCS development.
Pareja‐Eastaway et al. (Sat,) studied this question.