Purpose This study aims to investigate the thermal and moisture transport properties of cross-tuck knitted fabrics designed for hot and humid climates. The research evaluates how different yarn compositions (100% cotton, 50/50 and 70/30 cotton–polyester blends) and knitting structures (plain, single, double and triple cross-tuck stitches) influence fabric performance. By analyzing air permeability, moisture management, thermal conductivity and bursting strength, the study seeks to establish design guidelines for optimizing knitted textiles in extreme weather conditions. The findings will contribute to advancing functional fabric engineering for improved thermal comfort in high-temperature environments. Design/methodology/approach Three yarn compositions (100% cotton, 50/50 and 70/30 cotton–polyester blends) were knitted into four structures (plain, single, double and triple cross-tuck stitches) using a circular knitting machine. Fabric samples were developed and tested for air permeability (ISO 9237), moisture management (AATCC 195), thermal conductivity (KAWABATA KES-FB-7A) and bursting strength (ISO 13938–2). Statistical analysis (ANOVA and Tukey test) evaluated the effects of yarn composition and knitting structure on fabric properties. The experimental approach combined material characterization with standardized testing to assess performance under controlled conditions. Findings The 70/30 polyester–cotton blend exhibited superior mechanical properties (tenacity: 25.16 CN/Tex) compared to 100% cotton. Air permeability peaked in double cross-tuck structures (1,323 mm/s for 70/30 blend), while single cross-tuck showed optimal moisture management (OMMC: 0.60). Thermal conductivity remained consistent across structures (0.00005–0.00007 W/cm°C), with yarn composition exerting greater influence than stitch type. Bursting strength was highest in 70/30 single cross-tuck (307.8 kPa). Fabric thickness increased linearly with tuck-stitch frequency. Statistical analysis confirmed that yarn composition significantly impacted all properties (p 0.05), while knitting structure primarily affected air permeability and moisture management. Originality/value While most of the previous research investigates the properties of standard knitting patterns, cross-tuck stitches remain largely unexplored. This study fills that gap by analyzing how these specific stitches manage heat and moisture in hot and humid conditions. By testing plain knits against single, double and triple cross-tuck structures in both 100% cotton and cotton–polyester blends, we reveal how stitch complexity impacts the heat and moisture transfer properties of a textile fabric. The outcomes of the study help to develop more effective textile solutions with enhanced heat and mass transfer properties for challenging climatic conditions. Highlights
Fatima et al. (Mon,) studied this question.