Responsible procurement and complex product chains: the case of chemical risks in textiles

The objective of this study is to gain insights about the opportunities and challenges that private and public organisations face regarding the development of responsible procurement in a complex and uncertain issue. The paper focuses on chemicals in textiles, and uses a qualitative methodology with semi-structured interviews. Key elements of a pro-active, responsible procurement strategy are defined, including criteria such as using a preventive, systematic, responsive, integrative and reflective approach. The analysis includes the following topics: (1) priorities and knowledge; (2) communicative strategies; (3) policy instruments; (4) monitoring and trust in relation to suppliers. The results show a fairly modest level of organisational responsibility, although it is possible to observe an initial positive development.