Validation Of An Efficient Non-Hydrostatic Wave Model As A Design Tool For Foreshores In Physical Models

In the design of physical model experiments in coastal engineering, it is common that the construction of a foreshore is necessary to obtain the desired wave conditions at a given location, usually close to a structure being tested. In addition to the commonly used spectral wave parameters to describe the target wave conditions, the wave height distribution and associated parameters (such as Hmax and H2%), wave periods and infra-gravity waves can be important to reproduce properly as well. Wave height distributions are typically important for tests where e.g. wave run-up or wave forces are of interest. Since the construction of foreshores is labour intensive (and thus expensive), it is useful to be able to check a priori whether the target wave conditions are met with a given foreshore design and whether the chosen transition slope does not significantly influence the wave conditions. One way to do this is by using numerical wave models. For a numerical model to be a useful design tool for physical model layouts, the predicted wave transformation (over the foreshore) needs to be sufficiently accurate. One option is to use detailed CFD wave models for this purpose, such as OpenFOAM, which has been shown to accurately reproduce wave transformation (Jacobsen et al., 2015; Jacobsen et al., 2018). CFD models, however, typically feature high computational demand and consequentially computational times in the order of days. This is a significant disadvantage in the context of designing a physical model experiment, for which the layout and configuration is often an iterative process, which would be hampered by overly long computational times. On the other hand, spectral wave models, like SWAN (Booij et al., 1996), are much faster but do not model all the individual waves rendering it unable to model exceedance distributions. As a middle-ground, it seems that the XBeach model (Roelvink et al., 2009) used in its 2-layer non-hydrostatic mode (De Ridder et al., 2021) might present a workable compromise between computational time and accurate representation of the wave transformation. The model has been validated by De Ridder et al. (2021) on bichromatic waves, complex barred beach geometry and a fringing reef for bulk wave parameters and spectral properties. Expanding on earlier validation work, in this work the ability of the XBeach 2-layer non-hydrostatic model (XBeach-nh) to reproduce wave height exceedance distributions over a sloping foreshore is validated using wave flume data, described in Sections 2 and 3. The preliminary results of the validation effort are shown in Section 4.