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This is an accepted article with a DOI pre-assigned that is not yet published.This paper assesses the currency, relevance and suitability of the post-graduate Masters in Creative Pattern Cutting Major Project 'A Grey Area'. The intended context within which this project is set is a cultural one. The overarching aim is to explore the female ageing body through a pattern cutting lens. To develop solutions that intervene with the societal norm of gendered ageism and support a cultural shift in which clothing and female age became a valued cultural asset within a well-being economy. As the project has developed over the two-year time frame, the context has fluidly shifted between a cultural and commercial one. Exploring concepts of design for longevity when developing a woven garment that fits for a lifetime has commercial appeal as we prioritise sustainable concerns over trends and throw away fashion. The study has identified unexpected solutions to commercial problems surrounding fit of garments on elder bodies, such as developing methods for adapting mannequins to reflect typical signs of cellular ageing and challenging traditional pattern cutting methods by repositioning anchor points to reflect body proportions of elder consumers.This project captured qualitative data of two female research participants, one of whom is seventy-four years of age (Barbara) and the other ninety-six (Margaret). Adopting oral history theory (Abrams, 2010) to explore sentimental garments which remained within the research participants wardrobes (but no longer fit) are the focal point of the study. Quantitative data informed development work including body measurements and analysis of subject garments. Practice based research methods include pattern cutting from existing garments (replication), draping on to adapted mannequins, fit sessions, and various garment construction techniques. The user maker relationship sees the research participants making design decisions based on preference and taking part in the final curation of a stylised photoshoot in which a visual comparison between the original outfit and adapted version is presented. The outcome is a replication of sentimental garments adapted to fit the elder research participant that deviates from cultural norms of disguising signs of ageing and in fact draws attention to the ways in which the body has aged and patterns have been adapted.
Rebecca O'Leary (Tue,) studied this question.