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Abstract In an attempt to develop a forecast model for surfing waves, the fully nonlinear potential flow code REEF3D::FNPF is applied in the Ericeira World Surfing Reserve. Open-source bathymetry datasets, available in EMODNet, are used to define the domain. After a grid refinement study, simulations with irregular waves are performed, with varying heading directions. These waves are defined through the means of a JONSWAP spectrum, to model the effect of incoming swell. The wave spectrum and several significant wave height definitions are used to assess the impact that swell direction has on the waves of each beach. Moreover, the breaking wave detection algorithm incorporated in REEF3D::FNPF is combined with the Iribarren number to classify the type of breaking wave. This way, the model is able to predict the spatial location of plunging waves, one of the most appropriate types for surfing. Overall, North-South swell conditions produce the least amount of breaking waves, yet some of the beaches in the reserve still present potential for surf given the selected wave conditions.
Gomes et al. (Sun,) studied this question.