Tradition meets innovation: A systematic literature review of historical costume culture in chinese historical films (2000–2024)

This systematic literature review examines the evolving role of costume culture in Chinese historical films from 2000 to 2024. Drawing upon 38 peer-reviewed studies identified through PRISMA-guided procedures, the review employs thematic analysis to uncover recurring conceptual patterns and scholarly concerns. Chinese historical cinema, long valued for its visual grandeur and cultural resonance, utilizes costume not only as a medium of historical reconstruction but also as a conduit for ideological communication and artistic experimentation. Four major thematic trends emerged from the literature: (1) the representation of historical authenticity through sartorial detail and symbolic accuracy; (2) the incorporation of cultural innovation in costume aesthetics, reflecting the fusion of tradition with contemporary sensibilities; (3) the expression of cultural hybridity shaped by globalization, consumer preferences, and aesthetic trends; and (4) the negotiation among political ideology, commercial imperatives, and artistic autonomy. These themes indicate that costume in historical films functions beyond decorative enhancement, serving as a complex semiotic device that encodes cultural memory, visualizes social hierarchies, and mediates between collective identity and historical imagination. However, the review finds a strong focus on Han-centric dynastic narratives, with limited attention to regional diversity and the visual representation of ethnic minority groups. Moreover, most studies remain text-centered, lacking engagement with behind-the-scenes production dynamics, audience reception, or the application of digital technologies in costume design. These gaps underscore the need for broader interdisciplinary frameworks. Through conceptualizing costume design as a contested site of visual meaning-making and cultural negotiation, this review contributes to ongoing discussions in film studies, fashion theory, and cultural history. Future research is encouraged to integrate archival investigation, digital reconstruction, and ethnographic audience studies to more fully understand the evolving significance of costume in constructing historical narratives and contemporary cultural discourse.