A Study on the Costumes Used in Diplomatic Ceremonies for Japanese Envoys in Early Joseon - Focusing on the Suingukseopyeui in Gukjo-Oryeui -

This study analyzes the ceremonial attire worn by Joseon officials as detailed in the Suingukseopyeui section of the Gukjo-Oryeui. During the early Joseon period, diplomatic rites for receiving Japanese envoys began with the institutionalization of national rituals under King Taejong and were systematized during the reign of King Sejong through the establishment of the Ilbon Guksa Sukbaeui. The ceremonies became part of the state ritual system as noted in the Annals of King Sejong and were later included in the Gukjo-Oryeui during King Seongjong’s reign, establishing the basis for early Joseon diplomatic protocol with Japan. The costumes of Joseon participants in the Suingukseopyeui revealed essential features of ceremonial dress from that era. First, the king wore Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo. Second, attendants wore Sangbok composed of Danryeong, Samo, and Pumdae. Although “ Sangbok” and “ Sibok” were used interchangeably for Danryeong, the “ Sangbok” in this context likely referred to the black Danryeong. Third, the king’s procession was led by the Nobubanjang, identified as the Beopga Nobu. The Doga wore black Danryeong, and the guards and Saguem wore Gibok, presumed to denote armor ( Gapju). Fourth, the Beopga Nobu performed Gochwi music during the royal procession, while the Heonga performed during rituals. The Akhak-gwebeom record showed that the attire of the Beopga Nobu musicians matched the regulations of the Heonga during King Seongjong’s reign in the palace courtyard. This study provides a foundational analysis of early Joseon’s diplomatic ceremonial attire and aims to enhance understanding of Joseon diplomatic rituals for future comparative research.