A Study on Lower-level Military Officials` costumes of Pyeongan Gamyeong in the Late 18th Century : Focusing on the Welcoming Banquet for the Governor of Pyeongan in the National Museum of Korea

This study examines the roles and costume styles of lower-ranking military officials within the Pyeongan Gamyeong, based on the Welcoming Banquet for the Governor of Pyeongan housed at the National Museum of Korea. With the establishment of the sok-ogun during the late Joseon Dynasty, military positions such as cheonchong, pachong, and gipaegwan were appointed to supervise operations and training. The haengsu-gungwan oversaw the general condition and functioning of the troops, the byeongbang-gungwan managed administrative affairs, and the jangmu-gungwan handled matters within the jangcheong. The gyoryeon-gwan was responsible for military drills, the gipaegwan for military flags, and the gigogwan for flags and drums. The muim of the Pyeongan Gamyeong were classified into high-ranking officers(jang-gwan) and junior officers(jang-gyo) according to rank. In the painting, ingi, sugi, flags, and drums are not depicted, suggesting that among the jang-gyo positions, only gyoryeon-gwan and gungwan were likely present. The gyoryeon-gwan who command and supervise the chwigosu, sunryeongsu, and jujang-su, wore military uniforms consisting of a jeonrip, a hyeopsujeonbok, a black yodae, and a blue jeondae. The jeonrip was adorned with a wooden jeongja, sangmo, and peacock feathers, and its yeongja featured alternating imitation milhwa and coral. The military uniforms included combinations of purple jeonbok with dark green hyeopsu, dark green jeonbok with purple hyeopsu, and purple jeonbok with blue hyeopsu. Those wearing cheolrik, identified by jeongjaseon and nuseon, were presumed to be gungwan belonging either to the gamyeong or the jung-yeong. The gamyeong gungwan wore dark-colored cheolrik, blue doa, heukrip, and suhwaja, whereas the jung-yeong gungwan wore blue cheolrik, black doa, heukrip, and suhwaja. Differences in the color of the cheolrik and doa, as well as variations in cheolrik structure, appear to reflect distinctions in the status and affiliation of the gungwan.