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March 29, 2026Scientific Reports2 citationsOpen Access

Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery

SFSalomé FrugierRARafael AlmarEBErwin W. J. BERGSMA

Key Points

  • The research aims to define and evaluate the active beach state using remotely observable parameters from satellite imagery.
  • Utilized 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery to assess beach states across 30 microtidal sandy beaches.
  • Defined active beach state using the cross-shore distance between offshore wave-breaking and shoreline position.
  • Classified beach states into five categories based on transferable thresholds from satellite data.
  • Analyzed seasonal variability and beach state transitions over time.
  • Established relationships between beach state and parameters like beach-face slope and sediment grain size.
  • Successfully classified beaches from reflective to fully dissipative conditions.
  • Provided a continuous metric for monitoring beach state evolution over time.
  • Demonstrated that the cross-shore distance offers insights into beach-face slope and sediment characteristics.
  • Confirmed seasonal variability aligns with classifications at well-studied locations.
  • Enabled the potential for systematic monitoring of coastal morphodynamics globally.

Abstract

Traditionally, beach states are defined from visual observations, in-situ measurements and/or video imagery, which limits their application to a handful of well-instrumented sites. In this work, we propose a different approach by focusing on a remotely observable quantity: the cross-shore distance between the offshore wave-breaking and the shoreline position, denoted Formula: see text. This metric defines the active beach state, capturing where waves dissipate energy relative to the underlying morphology. Using 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery, Formula: see text is evaluated across 30 wave-dominated microtidal sandy beaches spanning reflective to fully dissipative conditions. The metric reproduces the structure of classical beach state frameworks and enables classification into five active states (R, LTT, TBR/RBB, LBT, and D) using transferable thresholds. Formula: see text is continuous, thus it also reveals how beach state evolve through time, allowing quantification of state occurrence, residence time, and transitions, with seasonal variability consistent with independent classifications at well-studied sites. Furthermore, using empirical relationships, we demonstrate that Formula: see text carries first-order information about beach-face slope (Formula: see text) and sediment grain size (Formula: see text), opening a pathway toward systematic satellite-based monitoring of coastal morphodynamics at regional to global scales.

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Cite This Study

Frugier et al. (2026) studied this question.

synapsesocial.com/papers/69c8c43ede0f0f753b39ef22https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-026-45638-3
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