The evolution of the academic discourse on sustainability in the fashion industry: insights from a bibliometric analysis

Over the past 15 years, the discourse surrounding the intersection of fashion and sustainability has transitioned from its nascent stages to garnering significant scholarly attention and research efforts, resulting in a substantial and rapidly expanding body of literature. In light of this, this article aims to conduct a comprehensive analysis of how academic research explores the combination of fashion and sustainability, referred to as ‘sustainable fashion’. To achieve this objective, a bibliometric analysis was undertaken to provide insights into the foundational works and emerging trends within sustainable fashion research. A total of 574 documents (comprising 463 articles, 12 books, 66 book chapters and 33 conference papers) spanning a 15-year period from 2007 to May 2022 were analysed using the Scopus database. The findings of the bibliometric analysis enabled us to: (1) identify foundational works, categorised into five thematic groups, encompassing slow and sustainable fashion, consumer perspectives on fast and eco-fashion, sustainable fashion supply chain management, sustainable business models and sustainable luxury; and (2) map the evolutionary trajectories of the field, delineating four stages in theory development, progressing from an initial focus on the creation of environmentally friendly products (eco-friendly approach) to embracing a holistic perspective of sustainability that encompasses supply chain dynamics, social considerations, and innovative business models. Based on these findings, we offer insights into potential future directions for the study of the sustainable fashion industry, which can inform decision-making processes in both private and public domains.