Mastering zero: how the pursuit of less waste leads to more creative pattern cutting

Creative pattern cutting is a skill and process through which expert practitioners can translate the constantly evolving fabrics and silhouettes of fashion. While specific pattern cutting skills and methodologies can be learnt, it is acknowledged that the discipline of pattern cutting almost defies mastery, as it shifts and expands to inform and facilitate new garment shaping strategies. Zero-waste, recycling, up cycling and working with advanced materials present pattern cutters with new challenges through which to develop more creative practice; a critical component of contemporary fashion design. This article discusses the term ‘mastery’ in relation to zero-waste approaches to cutting, and analyses how such innovative concepts continue to inform the role of the pattern cutter. The article also illustrates how the ability to master a specific technique or textile can enable the practitioner to reach a level of skill, experiential knowledge and understanding that can be applied to new design areas.