H04 A historical journey of the structure, texture, and identity of afro-textured hair

Abstract ‘Braids of strength, history’s embrace, afro crown, a legacy we trace. Braids hold secrets, whispers of pride, Afro hair, a heritage we can’t hide’ – Anonymous. Understanding the history of afro-textured hair takes us on a journey, illuminating the complex structure of the hair follicle, its unique texture, and the various sociocultural and political implications it has carried throughout the centuries. The journey begins in the ancient African kingdoms and stretches into the contemporary era, exposing the shifting attitudes, practices and perceptions of afro-textured hair. It paves the way for an understanding of maladaptive hairstyling practices that can lead to hair conditions such as traction alopecia, central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia, and trichorrhexis nodosa, and it helps us to create a path for healthier hairstyling practices. The ancient African kingdoms, with their diverse cultures and traditions, held afro-textured hair in high esteem. The structure and texture of afro-textured hair, characterized by its tightly coiled strands and curved follicle, were not mere biological attributes but were integral to identity, status, and societal roles. Bantu knots from the Zulu tribe of South Africa were symbols of femininity and beauty. The braided crown, native to the Mangbetu people of Congo, were symbols of wealth and status, where beauty standards highlighted the elongation of the skull. And the Amasunzu style worn by the Hutu and Tzutzi population of Rwanda were worn in preparation for battle and therefore in preparation for death. Hairstyles were an art form, rich with symbolism, a canvas that depicted the individual’s life journey from birth to death. However, these hairstyles, handed down over centuries and once revered as symbols of status, strength and beauty, became a tool for racial segregation with the advent of slavery in the 1400s. Protective styles like braids were replaced with damaging hair-straightening practices including hot combs, flat irons and relaxing agents, to mimic European hair textures. These practices, often painful and damaging, were introduced in a bid to emulate European hair textures, reflecting the pervasive influence of racial hierarchies on self-perception and aesthetics. In conclusion, understanding the history of afro-textured hair provides a background that enables us to appreciate its natural structure and texture. It also underscores the importance of incorporating historical understanding into dermatological consultations and treatments, thereby ensuring culturally competent care. The history of afro-textured hair is more than a tale of evolving hairstyles; it is a reflection of the broader sociopolitical transformations experienced by ­people of African descent. Recognizing this historical context can change our attitudes, promote healthier hair practices, and encourage acceptance of afro-­textured hair in all its forms.