Today, the pith helmet is a global symbol of nineteenth-century European imperialism in Africa, Asia and the Middle East. Until now, the helmet has primarily been researched through a military historical lens leaving the fashion, craft and production processes untouched. Originally developed to prevent death by ‘sunstroke’ of British soldiers in Asia, early pith helmets were likely to have been modelled after Bengali agricultural hats. The helmet’s design developed through an interplay of adoption and appropriation between British hat manufacturers and Indian shola pith and wickerwork craftspeople. Most popular between 1850 and 1950, the helmet’s wear varied by region, military rank and the wearer’s professional, cultural and ethnic background. In its emphasis on intercultural exchange and appropriation, this article joins the growing number of publications challenging the traditional Eurocentric approach to the history of dress.
Yona Lesger (Sun,) studied this question.