Since its introduction during the late imperial and early republican eras, Western cuisine has played a significant role in major Chinese port cities. Tracing back to their origin, Chinese-owned Western restaurants established by Cantonese entrepreneurs have allowed many Chinese to try Western food since 1880. However, due to their elevated prices, these Western restaurants were almost exclusively visited by those of higher socioeconomic status. By examining Western cuisine's integration into Chinese port cities such as Shanghai and Guangzhou through specific case studies, this paper argues that Chinese-owned Western restaurants became an opportunity for Westernized Chinese elites to assert their status. Furthermore, analysis of local newspapers detailing the Chinese's reaction to Western cuisine suggests the appearance of anxieties about globalization and non-adaptation to the West among the Chinese. This study includes visual sources, some depicting the dining experience within Western and Chinese restaurants, while others demonstrate the disparity between the rich and poor in early modern China.
C Li (Sat,) studied this question.