Antioxidant and Antimicrobial capacities of complex organic extracts containing stilbenes derivatives obtained from Vitis vinifera Pinot Noir Hairy Roots cultures for potential application in cosmetics

Abstract Stilbenes are bioactive molecules widely studied for their health benefits. A previously established Vitis vinifera hairy root line was used for its ability to produce several stilbenes, including trans-resveratrol, trans-piceatannol, cis-vitisin B, trans-piceid, pallidol, and trans-ε-viniferin. The influence of methyl-β-cyclodextrin (βCD) and Linecaps® maltodextrin was assessed during the growth phase, prior to elicitation (induced after a complete medium renewal). Stilbenes were extracted 7 days after elicitation from both the culture medium and the roots as crude extracts. Their antioxidant activities were evaluated using four in vitro assays and their antimicrobial activities were tested on three skin-associated bacteria. Cytotoxicity was assessed using an immortalized human keratinocyte line. Correlations between stilbenes content and bioactivity were examined. Roots pre-treated with βCD produced significantly more stilbenes and increased dimer formation, suggesting a potentializing effect. In contrast, Linecaps-treated roots produced similar stilbenes levels than control one but showed a significant increase in roots biomass. Crude extracts from the culture medium, rich in secreted stilbenes, exhibited the strongest antioxidant and antimicrobial effects, with similar cytotoxicity to less enriched extracts. This hairy root system proves to be a promising platform for producing bioactive plant compounds with potential cosmetic applications.