Facial pore refining by targeting dermal and epidermal functions: Assessment across age and gender

Abstract Background Conspicuous facial pores are benign but represent a cosmetic concern for men and women. Recent works described dermal and epidermal impairments as clinical causes of enlarged pores. Morphological modifications of skin at the site of pores were associated with collagen density loss, possible alteration of extracellular matrix and abnormal differentiation of keratinocytes. Aims A composition containing mannose‐6‐phosphate (Active Complex) was designed to address these different aspects of pore enlargement. In vitro and ex vivo evaluations were conducted in different models mimicking disturbance of dermal and epidermal functions. The pore refining activity of Active Complex was assessed in two clinical trials studying a Caucasian women cohort and an Asian men cohort. Results At the dermal level, Active Complex upregulated collagen I and decorin synthesis, and genes encoding collagens I, III, V, VII, XVII; suggesting its ability to favor collagen fiber organization and anchorage. The downregulation of matrix metalloprotease, involved in extracellular matrix degradation, reinforced the protective effect of Active Complex in the dermis. Active Complex down modulated differentiation markers in keratinocytes as well as genes involved in cell renewal. Study of reconstructed human epidermis modeling keratinocyte hyperproliferation revealed that Active Complex mitigated two markers of this state: number of nuclei in the stratum corneum and involucrin expression. Clinical trials confirmed the pore refining activity of Active Complex on men and women of different ages and ethnicities; −24% total skin pore area after 56 days of application on women, and −30.2% on men after 7 days. Conclusions This work demonstrates the interest to target dermal and epidermal modifications described in conspicuous pore area, especially dermis fiber organization, to address this cosmetic concern.