Dressing Pope Francis: His Public Costume between Pontifical, Jesuit, and Franciscan Traditions

Abstract When Jorge Bergoglio became the first Jesuit to be elected as a successor to St. Peter, it created a novel problem in papal and Jesuit history: how would a Jesuit interpret the long-standing but ever-evolving traditions of pontifical dress? This article sets out how Francis’s public sartorial choices have developed as he has negotiated his twin roles within the church. It further considers the influence of both Jesuit and Franciscan visual and material culture on the image he cultivates and the intersections between them and the imperatives of papal fashion. Finally, it considers the contribution of clothing to Francis’s image and reputation within the church and in popular media in Italy and in the wider world.