The formulation of solid cosmetic products with elevated water content poses considerable challenges, particularly in the context of lip care products, where water contributes to hydration, enhances texture, and facilitates the dissolution of hydrophilic active ingredients. Conventionally, these products are based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions embedded in a solid matrix, stabilised primarily by synthetic emulsifiers. However, an increase in consumer demand for eco-friendly formulations has resulted in a heightened interest in natural emulsifiers. In this study, the performance of IDRAWAX® REVO, a natural emulsifying and structuring agent, was evaluated in solid W/O formulations with varying water concentrations. The findings indicate that IDRAWAX® REVO efficiently stabilises emulsions across diverse oil and water contents, thereby preserving product uniformity and stability. These findings emphasise the potential of this approach to streamline the formulation of water-based solid cosmetics, thus obviating the necessity for synthetic emulsifiers. This work represents a significant advancement in the field of solid cosmetic formulation, thereby facilitating the development of innovative products that exhibit enhanced properties and optimised textures.
Conti et al. (Mon,) studied this question.