This review analyzes the synthesis and performance of bioactive peptides in cosmetics, suggesting innovative strategies for enhancement.
Bioactive peptides have emerged as powerful functional ingredients in cosmetics, valued for their rapid action, high specificity, and low toxicity. These short amino acid sequences can deliver antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-aging, UV-protective, and skin-brightening effects by selectively interacting with biological targets in the skin. This review offers a comprehensive synthesis of recent advances in the field, from peptide classification and skin-related mechanisms of action to production methods and discovery technologies. Key peptide classes are outlined by their functions and pathways, followed by a comparative analysis of current production routes—chemical synthesis, enzymatic protein hydrolysis, and recombinant biosynthesis via synthetic biology—highlighting each approach’s advantages, limitations, and scalability for cosmetic use. Strategies to enhance peptide stability and delivery are discussed, including chemical modifications (e.g., acetylation, lipidation, cyclization) that improve resistance to degradation and innovative formulation approaches (such as liposomes, nanoparticles, and other carriers) that facilitate effective skin penetration. Furthermore, high-throughput discovery platforms, including phage display libraries and artificial intelligence (AI)-driven computational design (e.g., machine learning and deep learning), are dramatically improving the efficiency and precision of identifying and optimizing new bioactive peptides. Enabled by these technological innovations, the field is rapidly evolving: synthetic biology and bioinformatics now allow large-scale peptide biosynthesis and rational design of multifunctional peptides. Continued progress in production, stabilization, and AI-guided design is expected to overcome current challenges and fully unlock the potential of bioactive peptides in next-generation cosmetic formulations.
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Tang et al. (2026) studied this question.
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