Laboratory experiment reveals elevated kurtosis and wave envelope peaks over sloping bathymetry, indicating that underwater slopes locally amplify the probability of freak waves.
We show experimental evidence that as relatively long unidirectional waves propagate over a sloping bottom, from a deeper to a shallower domain, there can be a local maximum of kurtosis and skewness close to the shallower side of the slope. We also show evidence that the probability of large wave envelope has a local maximum near the shallower side of the slope. We therefore anticipate that the probability of freak waves can have a local maximum near the shallower side of a slope for relatively long unidirectional waves.
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Trulsen et al. (2012) studied this question.
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