On the banks of the Pilcomayo River: Wichí fishery in the age of motorcycles

In just a few years motorcycles had become an irreplaceable object for the daily life of Indigenous people in the Gran Chaco region. In spite of their pervasiveness, there are still many aspects to this current dissemination that remain to be unraveled. This paper explores the ways in which motorcycles have been incorporated into Indigenous material culture and the ways they are reshaping Indigenous perceptions and relations with the local environment. Starting from the machines and their uses is a way to not confine Indigenous people to a position as victims of modernity, but rather to recognize their proactive role in the ongoing reproduction and transformation of their cultural world. For this purpose, I take the example of the Wichí fishery to see how this cultural practice is changing as fishermen adopt motorcycles as means of transport. I investigate this practice and its transformations based on ethnographic fieldworks carried out with several communities settled on the banks of the Pilcomayo River, as well as readings of the ethnological literature which contains detailed descriptions of this practice. By tracing its past and ongoing transformations, I show how the hold and spatial organization of Wichí fishery has evolved as motorcycles spread to the whole Pilcomayo area. Their adoption redefines fishermen perceptions and relations with the surrounding environment, which is now understood from a new mechanized and motorized perspective of capitalization and exploitation. Indeed, while motorcycles allow them to integrate into the market, they further promote market penetration on Indigenous lands. At the same time, I demonstrate how motorcycles allow fishermen to overcome the inconveniences of an intractable river and new infrastructures that hinder fishing practices, as well as to bypass the attempts to privatize the riverbanks. In a way, the fishermen are more resilient to these sudden changes thanks to motorcycles.