The Promotion of Tea in South China: Re-Inventing Tradition in an Old Industry

This article describes the promotion and consumption of tea in South China, particulaly in Quanzhou, Fujian. Contrary to popular knowledge of tea drinking as an ancient Chinese tradition, tea drinking in Quanzhou today is actually a re-invented tradition. The article shows that the popularity of tea drinking in Quanzhou today came about as a result of promotion by various agents involving tea farmers, tea merchants, and the government in post-Mao China. In addition, Taiwanese tea industry and businesspeople also play important roles in the production and modernization of Anxi tea. The re-invented tradition of tea consumption provides a new way of consuming tea and conducting social relations. The culture of tea consumption in Quanzhou today is shaped by both the forces of post-reform economic development and changing perception of social status and modernity.