Measuring vs. Estimating Anxiety in Sport Lead Climbers: A Study on Young Athletes

Purpose: This study aimed to evaluate pre-competition anxiety levels in young sport climbers using both objective (HRV) and subjective (STAI) methods, examine their alignment, and assess their relationship with performance. Method: This cross-sectional study, involving 36 adolescent climbers (18 female, 18 male). HRV parameters (LF/HF, VLF, LF, HF) were measured via wearable heart rate monitors, while anxiety levels were assessed using STAI. Performance scores were determined according to the TDF criteria. Findings: Male climbers exhibited significantly higher VLF values than females. Sympathetic activity, as indicated by the LF/HF ratio (2.44 ± 1.19), showed a positive correlation with performance (r = 0.447, p = 0.01). However, no significant relationship was found between STAI scores (state anxiety: 44.53 ± 4.42; trait anxiety: 48.36 ± 4.99) and performance. Additionally, HRV parameters and STAI scores were not significantly correlated. Although the findings reveal the influence of sympathetic dominance on performance, the small and regional sample size limits generalizability. Conclusion: The study highlights that sympathetic activity (LF/HF) is positively associated with performance in young sport climbers, while subjective anxiety measurements alone may be insufficient. The findings underscore the necessity of "measuring" rather than "estimating" anxiety and emphasize that performance is influenced not only by anxiety but also by experience, technical skills, and environmental factors. Furthermore, the higher VLF values in males suggest the importance of integrating gender-based physiological differences into training strategies. These results highlight the importance of objective anxiety measurement, though the study’s limitations, including its cross-sectional design and homogeneous sample, warrant cautious interpretation.