The Energy Spectra of Surf Waves on a Coral Reef

The transformation of waves crossing a coral reef in Hawaii including the probability density function of the wave heights and periods and the shape of the spectrum is discussed. The energy attenuation and the change of height and period statistics is examined using spectral analysis and the zero up-crossing procedure. Measurements of waves at seven points along a 1650 ft transect in depths from 1 to 3.5 ft on the reef and 35 ft offshore were made.