A numerical model is presented that predicts the transformation of monochromatic waves over complex bathymetry and includes both refractive and diffractive effects. Finite difference approximations are used to solve the governing equations, and the solution is obtained for a finite number of rectilinear grid cells that comprise the domain of interest. Model results are compared with data from two experimental tests, and the capability and utility of the model for real coastal applications are illustrated by application to an ocean inlet system.
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Bruce A. Ebersole (1985) studied this question.
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