In order to understand wave-cut platform initiation at a time of stationary sea level, a wave flume experiment was conducted. A steep model cliff was exposed to three different types of waves: standing, breaking, and broken waves. Results showed that breaking and broken waves formed platforms, while standing waves did not. In the development of these platforms, impulsive pressure was predominant in the physical action of breaking waves, while shearing force was dominant in broken waves. Erosive forces of breaking, broken, and standing waves decreased in that order if their deep water wave characteristics were the same. The platform produced by breaking waves was located lower than that made by broken waves.
No takes yet. Share an insight, caveat, or question.
Tsuguo Sunamura (1975) studied this question.