Design Strategies for the Eternal Reoccurrence of the New

In response to increasing resource pressures and environmental degradation in relation to the fashion industry, the body of academic work on extending garment lifetimes is growing steadily. Yet there is a lack of knowledge regarding how design strategies for longevity play out in practice. This research aims to bridge that gap by drawing on both theoretical knowledge and empirical data from three case studies conducted in UK-based small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). Each case study comprised in-depth interviews and visual observations. The results reveal that a range of design strategies for extended garment lifetimes are evident in practice, as garments are inspired by deep-rooted personal interests rather than fleeting trends; silhouettes are honed and evolve slowly over time; and removable modular elements creating updateable pieces and eternally mendable clothing are found. Furthermore, the longevity of a garment is influenced by a complex interplay between the material objects themselves, cultural norms and individual behavior. By focusing on small innovative labels that may be described as exemplars, simultaneously challenging and shaping the future of fashion, this study contributes to knowledge by describing fashion design strategies for sustainability. Greater clarity in relation to sustainable practices is also provided for industry.