The hidden cost of textiles production

The textile industry plays a key role in the global economy, with global sales amounting to 878 billion USD. Yet, the global environmental footprint of this sector and the associated socio-economic impact are poorly understood. Here we conduct a cradle-to-gate life cycle assessment (LCA) to quantify the environmental footprint of nine different fibers and their externalities costs, i.e., the cost of environmental impacts. We find that the global externalities cost of textiles production could amount to as much as 923 billion USD, representing 85–400 % of the corresponding textile production cost. Damage on human health and ecosystems are found to be the main drivers of externalities, while the fiber and fabric production steps are the main contributors towards them. Our prospective analysis based on future trends in socio-economic systems shows that the expected decarbonization of the electricity mix could reduce the carbon footprint of the textile industry, while increasing ecosystem damage. Moreover, future income growth and a higher expected demand would result in an increase in overall externalities of ca. 200 %. Our results highlight the need to shift to more sustainable textile production patterns, which could bring economic in addition to environmental benefits.