Study of Wave Models of Parabolic Mild Slope Equation and Boussinesq Equation

The Parabolic mild slope equation and Boussinesq equation wave models are studied in this paper. First, the wave models Funwave and REF/DIF, which based on Boussinesq equations and the parabolic mild slope equation, respectively, are introduced. And then, two experiments are used to study these two wave models, one is the non-breaking shoal experiment of University of Delaware and the other is the breaking undertow test experiment, which was finished in Ocean University of China by author. Last, the simulation data of two wave models are compared with the measured data. The results show that both Boussinesq equation and the parabolic mild slope equation wave models can simulated nearshore wave condition precisely, but Boussinesq equation wave models has a disadvantage in catching the variation of wave height caused by wave breaking.