Answers are grounded in this paper and cite their sources.
Simulations in a three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate the shoaling and breaking of solitary waves over a sloping ridge. The numerical model solves fully nonlinear potential flow equations with a high-order boundary-element method combined with an explicit time-integration method, expressed in a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation. Analyses of shoaling and breaking-wave profiles and kinematics (both on the free surface and within the flow) are carried out. It is observed that the transverse modulation of the ridge topography induces three-dimensional effects on the time evolution, shape and kinematics of breaking waves. Comparisons of two- and three-dimensional results in the middle cross-section of the ridge, however, show remarkable similarities, especially for the shape and dynamics of the plunging jet.
No takes yet. Share an insight, caveat, or question.
Guyenne et al. (2006) studied this question.
Synapse has enriched 10 related papers. Consider them for comparative context: