Kimberly DaCosta Holton, Dressing for Success: Lisbon as European Cultural Capital, The Journal of American Folklore, Vol. 111, No. 440, In Modern Dress: Costuming the European Social Body, 17th-20th Centuries (Spring, 1998), pp. 173-196
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Kimberly DaCosta Holton (1998) studied this question.
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