Wave Period and Coastal Bathymetry Using Wave Propagation on Optical Images

We propose a method based on combining wave tracing and linear wave theory for the estimation of wave period and bathymetry in coastal areas from satellite images. The method depends on several parameters for which we provide ranges of variations adapted to the instrument. Experimental results are conducted on several sites located around the Hawaiian island of Oahu, using 13 Landsat-8 images. Results show that wave period estimations are compatible with the wave buoy measurements in all cases. In addition, bathymetry estimation results show a standard deviation of less than 15% of the observed depth out of the surf zone until 20 m for sites with a direct exposure to the swell and with an absence of clouds. The proposed method, which does not rely on ancillary data, represents a promising tool for bathymetry estimation using satellite images in which waves are present.