Deformation of Reef Breakwaters and Wave Transmission

The risk-based design of a reef breakwater requires the prediction of the temporal variations of the damage and wave transmission coefficient during storms. The cross-shore numerical model is extended to the landward zone of the wave transmission. The extended model is compared with 148 tests for a reef breakwater with a narrow crest at or above the still water level where the narrow crest was lowered by wave action. The model is also compared with an experiment on a wide-crested submerged breakwater in which the crest height increased during 20-h wave action. The damage, crest height, and wave transmission coefficient are predicted reasonably well; however, the damaged profile is not predicted accurately.