Culinary issues introduce a particular way of dealing with the construction of history and the processes of differentiation, commodification and exoticism. Food is related to sensory experiences, and taste and smell play a crucial role in the creation and representation of the past. This article studies the past as/through text and performance by looking at how history is brought back, represented and performed by food practices in the present. It analyses a number of Ottoman restaurants in terms of their expression of the Ottoman past and their ways of performing `Ottomanness' in the city of Istanbul.
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Defne Karaosmanoğlu (2009) studied this question.
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