A keratinocytes–melanocytes coculture system for the evaluation of active ingredients' effects on UV‐induced melanogenesis

A new experimental design, more reliable for in vitro testing of active ingredients' effect on ultraviolet (UV)-induced melanogenesis has been carried out. It uses a bicompartmental coculture system where cell communication between keratinocytes and melanocytes can take place. Thus, this experimental situation enables to monitor the effect of biological agents released by both cell types on melanogenesis and the interference of tested compounds with this 'paracrine linkage'. Experiments with UVB-irradiated cocultures show the importance of cell communication in the melanogenic response. In this model, the endogenous mediator, nitric oxide (NO), increased melanin production. Different compounds were tested in the coculture system, and comparison with data obtained from irradiated monocultures of melanocytes enables to distinguish a specific effect on cell communication. In addition, this more close-to-reality experimental model proved to provide a valuable first approach for the assessment of the 'bioavailability' of the tested substances. Finally, the effect of an innovative photoprotective agent capable of 'boosting' UV-induced melanogenic cell communication is presented.