Tradition, Empowerment and Challenges: Women in the Saree Recycling Process in Jharkhand

This study examines the gendered dimensions of informal labour within the saree recycling economy in Dhanbad, Jharkhand, through the lens of feminist political economy and intersectionality. Based on qualitative fieldwork conducted between June and July 2025, the research draws on 30 in-depth semi-structured interviews with women workers, along with five focus group discussions (FGDs) involving 30 women participants (six women in each group), participant observation and informal discussions with 15 male workers engaged in different stages of the saree recycling process. The findings reveal that saree recycling functions as a survival-oriented livelihood for economically marginalized women belonging largely to Scheduled Caste Rajak/Dhobi communities, minority Muslim households and other low-income groups. Despite contributing significantly to local circular textile economies, women workers experience low wages, irregular employment, poor working conditions and lack of social protection. The study highlights how women’s labour remains undervalued within informal recycling systems while simultaneously sustaining household economies and environmentally sustainable practices. It argues for greater policy recognition, labour protections and inclusive approaches to sustainable textile circularity in India.