Nearshore Cell Circulation and the Formation of Giant Cusps

Research Article| September 01, 1971 Nearshore Cell Circulation and the Formation of Giant Cusps PAUL D KOMAR PAUL D KOMAR Department of Oceanography, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon 97331 Search for other works by this author on: GSW Google Scholar Author and Article Information PAUL D KOMAR Department of Oceanography, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon 97331 Publisher: Geological Society of America Received: 05 Apr 1971 First Online: 02 Mar 2017 Online ISSN: 1943-2674 Print ISSN: 0016-7606 Copyright © 1971, The Geological Society of America, Inc. Copyright is not claimed on any material prepared by U.S. government employees within the scope of their employment. GSA Bulletin (1971) 82 (9): 2643–2650. https://doi.org/10.1130/0016-7606(1971)82[2643:NCCATF]2.0.CO;2 Article history Received: 05 Apr 1971 First Online: 02 Mar 2017 Cite View This Citation Add to Citation Manager Share Icon Share Facebook Twitter LinkedIn Email Permissions Search Site Citation PAUL D KOMAR; Nearshore Cell Circulation and the Formation of Giant Cusps. GSA Bulletin 1971;; 82 (9): 2643–2650. doi: https://doi.org/10.1130/0016-7606(1971)82[2643:NCCATF]2.0.CO;2 Download citation file: Ris (Zotero) Refmanager EasyBib Bookends Mendeley Papers EndNote RefWorks BibTex toolbar search Search Dropdown Menu toolbar search search input Search input auto suggest filter your search All ContentBy SocietyGSA Bulletin Search Advanced Search Abstract Large cusps are common along many shorelines, sometimes isolated but at times forming a rhythmic series of such forms with a uniform spacing. The role of the cell circulation, rip currents and associated longshore currents, in producing such cusps is examined. A series of laboratory wave basin experiments is presented in which the cell circulation of water modifies an initially smooth and straight sand beach. In all cases, it is found that cusps develop in the lee of the rip currents so that a series of cusps is formed with the same spacing as the rip currents. These are compared with giant cusps and beach cusps observed on natural beaches. An equilibrium cusp development is found in the experiments in which, having produced the cusps, all cell circulation and other longshore currents suddenly cease to exist; the rip currents disappear. It is demonstrated that the equilibrium state consists of a balance between the forces that tend to drive a longshore current from an oblique wave approach to the flanks of the cusps, and the forces that normally produce the cell circulation. Cusps, having been produced by rip currents, can therefore be observed on beaches although the rips are no longer present. First Page Preview Close Modal You do not have access to this content, please speak to your institutional administrator if you feel you should have access.