Orbital velocity and breaking in steep random gravity waves

Laboratory measurements by PIV of strongly nonlinear irregular waves are compared to orbital velocity calculations of directional field waves. Nondimensional fluid velocities are obtained dividing by a local wave phase speed which is evaluated from a local wave number and wave slope. 30 laboratory waves have slope in the range 0.14–0.4. Nine among the waves have a slope of about 0.3, and breaking is measured in four among the waves. A backward breaking wave has local wave slope as small as 0.22. Wave induced acceleration is measured. Orbital velocity of two samples of directional field waves in storm conditions are calculated by nonlinear method and compared to the laboratory kinematics. The effect of the ocean surface current is accounted for. The field data include wave groups of local elevation gradient up to 0.3. The sample with the longest fetch exhibits nondimensional orbital velocities that are similar to the laboratory waves including levels up to breaking. In the other field sample, nondimensional fluid velocities are proportional to the local wave slope (up to 0.3), and velocities are well below breaking level.