β -eudesmol is a kind of aromatic compound belonging to sesquiterpenoid which exists within not only the bark of magnolia but also Nardostachys jatamansi , Atractylodes lancea , Pterocarpus santalinus , Ginkgo bilobal , Cryptomeria japonica , etc., and there has been progress in medical and pharmaceutic researches on antitumor, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory effects; nervous system stabilization; and vasodilator effects, etc., but not in researches on skin cares and cosmetics at all. Therefore, this study pretreated β-eudesmol with human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and then gave oxidative stresses with H 2 O 2 to examine antioxidation, anti-inflammatory, and cell preservation effects. Through this process, it proves the possibility of β-eudesmol as cosmetic materials. This study verified the effectiveness of β-eudesmol through cell viability analysis, reactive oxygen estimation, associated β-galactosidase assay, nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) luciferase assay, and quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR). The cell viability which decreased due to H 2 O 2 increased as per dose-dependent manners of β-eudesmol. Also, at the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity assay, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) quantitative analysis and glutathione (GSH) estimation, the relative levels which were changed by H 2 O 2 treatment, showed attenuated or protective transition forms, depending on the concentration of β-eudesmol. Additionally, reduced superoxide dismutase 1 ( SOD1 ) and catalase ( CAT ) gene expression by H 2 O 2 were increased by β-eudesmol. As the result of the promoter activity analysis of NF-κB which has a key role in inflammation and skin aging, NF-κB activity decreases as β-eudesmol concentration increases, and also this study proves that gene expression of interleukin 1 beta ( IL-1β ) which is a downstream gene of NF-κB related to inflammatory response decreases as well as tumor necrosis factor-alpha ( TNF-α ) gene expression depending on the concentration of β-eudesmol. Through these results, this study suggests there are anti-inflammatory effects by shutting out the NF-κB pathway. Following the results of the extracellular matrix (ECM) regulating gene expression analysis, this study proves that oxidative stress-induced increased MMP1 levels were decreased depending on the concentration of β-eudesmol and verifies that it hinders the collapse of collagen through inhibition of transcriptional activity of NF-κB. From the result of β-eudesmol regulating tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinase ( TIMP)-1 gene expression which hinders matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), activation and alteration of gene expression of collagen type I alpha 1 ( COL1A1 ) underpins the above consequences. Through this research, it is considered that β-eudesmol as one of natural cosmetic materials with such effects as antioxidation, anti-inflammation, and cell preservation is worthy of notice.
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Kyung Yun Kim (2018) studied this question.
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