Kinematic and dynamic evolution of deep water breaking waves

Experiments were performed to exploit the dispersive properties of unsteady surface waves and to induce breaking by using a modified chirp pulse technique to focus the wave energy at a specific location in the Naval Research Laboratory deep water wave channel. The experiments have resulted in a highly resolved archive of breaking events ranging from wave steepening and incipient breaking to spilling and to plunging. The potential energy density, the crest front steepness, the horizontal asymmetry, and other geometric properties of an incipient breaker vary only within a moderate band about their mean values over the extent of these experiments. Thus the properties of an incipient unsteady breaker are well defined. The application of the phase‐time or Hilbert transform method to the data set provides new insights into the local properties of the unsteady wave breaking. Recently, spectral and piecewise‐linear algorithms for two‐dimensional potential flow were developed and used bySchultz et al.[1994] to compare the onset of breaking for several methods of energy input to the unsteady wave system. The computations show that steep plunging waves occur when energy input rates are large. The various energy input methods exhibit similar breaking trends in the limit as the energy input rate becomes small in that incipient spilling breakers form when the potential energy is approximately 52 to 54% of the energy for the most energetic Stokes wave, with the formation of a singularity immediately before the crest.