Investigating the Behavior of a Natural Emulsifier in One-Pot and Standard Cosmetic Emulsions

The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form emulsions, which are among the main cosmetic formulations. An important aspect in this regard is the evaluation of emulsions’ stability over time and emulsions’ production methodology. In this paper, a comparison is made between two emulsion production technologies, the Standard and the “One-Pot” methods, through the characterization of the raw material ABWAX® Revomul, a multifunctional wax for cosmetic use which consists of a low-melting structuring wax of vegetal origin (Rhus wax) and a natural emulsifier (Polyglyceril-3 Stearate). First, we evaluated the affinity between the wax raw materials and emollients of different chemical nature; then, we analyzed the impact of the production method on the emulsions to identify similarities and differences. ABWAX® Revomul demonstrated a high level of effectiveness in regard to stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions. This study suggests that from an industrial point of view, the application of the two procedures allows products with different characteristics to be obtained, consequently allowing a specific method to be chosen to obtain the desired product.