Wine and Copper Color: Dyes by a Quaker Woman in Scotland, 1697–1723

This paper discusses dye recipes written after 1697 by Christian Barclay Jaffray, a Scottish woman from a prominent Quaker family. The more than sixty dye recipes were written by Barclay in a receipt book that also contains medical and culinary recipes. They introduce a wealth of new information about the production and use of color among early Quaker women, demonstrating that many more hues were used than previously thought. They also specify previously unknown methods by which many hues were obtained by domestic dyers in the early modern British Isles. The authors, working at the Research Center for Virtual/Material Studies (CV/MS) at Pennsylvania State University, have recreated several recipes, with particular focus on “wine coloūr” and “trūe and dūrable copper coloūr,” to elaborate on the recipes’ rhetorical, material, and chromatic features. The authors interpret recipes according to religious, socio-economic, and political contexts that surrounded Barclay’s family, given that her father, Robert Barclay, was a prominent theologian among the Friends, and her mother, Christian Mollison Barclay, was a well-known healer proficient with materials and equipment also used in dye recipes.