Research demonstrates anti-aging properties and chemical profiles in illyrian iris rhizome, suggesting sustainable cosmetic uses.
Illyrian iris (Iris pallida subsp. illyrica (Tomm. ex Vis.) K.Richt.) is a rhizomatous geophyte, an endemic species (subspecies), occurring within a limited range along the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea. The study presents the first in-depth chemical and functional investigation of its rhizome extracts using both conventional and greener solvents, as well as essential oil (EO) via hydrodistillation, employing gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS) and ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS) for metabolic fingerprinting, which was further interpreted through a chemosensory lens. High-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC) bioautography (HPTLC-DPPH/ HPTLC-Tyrosinase) was applied for the first time to this species, revealing zones of bioactivity. HaCaT cell viability and spectrophotometric assays were employed to further evaluate the cosmetic potential. Results showed a distinctive volatile profile of EO, including, to the best of our knowledge, the first identification of a silphiperfol-type sesquiterpenoid in the Illyrian iris rhizome. UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS and HPTLC fingerprinting further supported solvent-dependent differences in metabolite composition. Notably, acetone, ethyl acetate, and ethanol extracts exhibited similar chemical profiles, while greener extracts showed more divergent patterns. The results provide a foundation for the future exploration of Illyrian iris in sustainable cosmetic applications, emphasizing the need for further in vitro and in vivo validation.
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Stojiljković et al. (2025) studied this question.
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