Impact of mean water level on particle drift in shallow and intermediate depth

Particle motions under nonlinear gravity waves at the free surface of a two-dimensional incompressible and inviscid fluid are considered. The Euler equations are solved numerically using a high-order spectral method based on a Hamiltonian formulation of the water-wave problem. Extending this approach, a numerical procedure is devised to estimate the fluid velocity at any point in the fluid domain given surface data. The reconstructed velocity field is integrated to obtain particle trajectories for which an analysis is provided, focusing on two questions. The first question is the influence of a wave setup or setdown as is typical in coastal conditions. It is shown that such local changes in the mean water level can lead to qualitatively different pictures of the internal flow dynamics. These changes are also associated with rather strong background currents which dominate the particle transport and, in particular, can be an order of magnitude larger than the well-known Stokes drift. The second question is whether these particle dynamics can be described with a simplified wave model. The Korteweg–de Vries equation is found to provide a good approximation for small- to moderate-amplitude waves on shallow and intermediate water depth. Despite discrepancies in severe cases, it is able to reproduce characteristic features of particle paths for a wave setup or setdown.