Poster presentationsH05 Tutankhamun’s patchouli slumber: are we sleeping on it in dermatology?

Abstract Patchouli oil is derived from the patchouli plant, a member of the family Lamiaceae. Similar plants from this family include mint, sage and lavender. The Pogostemon cablin species of the plant is the most popular for cultivating essential oil due to the species’ outstanding therapeutic properties. The oil is obtained through an intricate steam distillation process. Initially used in South East Asia to mask the smell of body decomposition during funerals in the 17th century, and later as an insect repellent in the 1800s, patchouli leaves entered the European market in the 19th century. Nowadays, it is used across perfumery, aromatherapy, skincare and spiritual practices. Once a symbol of wealth, patchouli was so beloved by Tutankhamun that he was buried with 10 gallons of the oil in his tomb in ancient Egypt. Concerning dermatological conditions, patchouli was an early treatment for acne due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It has also shown benefits for dermatitis, eczema, dandruff and oily scalp conditions. As a cell rejuvenator, it can help reduce scar appearance and aid in wound healing. These effects are attributed to the flavonoids, mono- and sesquiterpenoids present in patchouli. In 2013, Yang et al. used molecular docking technology to investigate the antibacterial activity of patchouli oil in vitro (Yang X, Zhang X, Yang SP, Liu WQ. Evaluation of the antibacterial activity of patchouli oil. Iran J Pharm Res 2013; 12: 307–16). Twenty-six compounds in the oil displayed antibacterial activity. In further studies, molecular docking tools and viewer software were used for virtual screening of these compounds. The most significant finding was alpha-patchouli alcohol being a potential inhibitor of the cyclo-oxygenase 1 enzyme. Inhibiting this enzyme would reduce the prostaglandin production involved in the inflammatory process. Different studies have also shown a correlation with patchouli oil and the downregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3) involved in collagen degradation. Further experimental evidence has demonstrated positive results for ultraviolet-induced skin photoageing and the protective effects of P. cablin in mice. Researchers applied patchouli oil for 2 h before ultraviolet exposure to the dorsal skin of mice. Patchouli oil doses of 6 mg per mouse and 9 mg per mouse significantly suppressed skin wrinkle formation, improved skin elasticity, and increased collagen content by 21.9% and 26.3%, respectively. Patchouli oil maintains a prominent role in traditional Asian medicine, while in the West, there is minimal literature, indicating substantial potential for patchouli in dermatological practice. The promising evidence for photoageing necessitates continued investigation. In the cosmetic industry, patchouli remains a popular ingredient in beard oils and more, appreciated by many.