Rhus coriaria L. in tradition and innovation like natural dye

Abstract Nowadays, secondary raw materials (SRM) obtained from plant matrices are of great interest for circular economy, suitable for sustainable measures to reduce environmental impact. This work focused on the extraction, characterization and quantification of compounds obtained from leaves and fruits of the Sicilian sumac, Rhus coriaria L. and their application as natural dyes on textile fibres. Extractions were performed with Extractor Naviglio®, maceration and ultrasound assisted methods and food-grade solvents (aqueous and hydroalcoholic) to evaluate the yields for dye compounds. The presence of colouring molecules was evaluated by UV–Vis spectrophotometer, and the extracts selected for colouring were quantified and characterized by LC–MS. The results showed that Extractor Naviglio® achieved the best extraction yield, and the ethanol–water mixture extracts had a higher amount of total phenolic compounds (TPC) and a higher content of total colouring compounds (TCC). These extracts were selected for subsequent applications as dyes for linen, cotton and wool. The chemical profile of selected extracts was rich in compounds such as gallotannin and anthocyanin class. Fibre dyeing was verified by recording CIELAB colouring coordinates. The results suggest that the dyes obtained from R. coriaria can be of great interest for artisanal and industrial processes, in accordance with environmental sustainability.