Abstract The primary component of the lipid barrier on human hair, which is essential for defense against aging and environmental stresses, is 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA), which provides hydrophobic properties and protective benefits. Since 18-MEA cannot be regenerated once damaged, it is critical to develop technology that can permanently bind alternativematerials to hair. Once it was determined that 18-MEA was removed from the hair using X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), pentaerythritol tetraisoosterate (PTIS) was hydrolyzed and observed via gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS)to confirm that mimic 18-MEA, 16-methylheptadecanoic acid (16-MHA) wasobtained at pH 4 or lower. The 16-MHA was bioconjugated to damaged hair from which 18-MEA was removed via a carbodiimide reaction using polycarbodiimide. Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (TOF-SIMS) confirmed that 16-MHA remained on the surface of bioconjugated hair even after washing. Observation of the endothermic reaction of moisture in the hair using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) and evaluation of the moisture content confirmed that the hair bioconjugated with 16-MHA exhibited similar physical properties to virgin hair. This biomimetic approach has been demonstrated to restore both external structural integrity and internal moisture homeostasis.
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Song et al. (2024) studied this question.
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