Skin-care science and skepticism

The pitch was bold: suntan without the sun. One of the ingredient maker Givaudan's big pushes at this year's In-Cosmetics Global, a trade show held last week in Paris, is a plant extract that the firm says grants the benefits of being out in the sun without the drawbacks. Specifically, Givaudan claims that Neuroglow stimulates the skin to produce melanin, the pigment behind human pigmentation and tanning. The firm says the ingredient also promotes the release of endorphins, vitamin D, and oxytocin—molecules that promote peaceful, good feelings. All this without sitting in the sun and the risks of cancer and premature skin aging that conventional tanning brings. Such claims are exciting but a little hard to believe. Personal care ingredients are split into two groups, three if you count fragrance separately. Functional ingredients include the surfactants, moisturizers, solvents, and other compounds that give products their physical properties and generally make